WineCountry.IT Selection – Maria Manso World Cuisine
Loris Scagliarini - January 26, 2008
Maria Manso
At long last, after almost a year, I would like to write about another San Francisco North Bay restaurant which we like a lot: San Rafael's Maria Manso World Cuisine, located at 1613 Fourth Street, just a little outside of San Rafael downtown proper. This is a friendly, neighborhood restaurant, with big-city quality, but accessible prices.
The restaurant cuisine offers an enticing culinary crossover of Asia and Maria's native Cuba.
"I always dreamed of having a restaurant of my own,” remarks Maria, “where I can enjoy a more intimate relationship with my guests, and have complete creative freedom with the menu."
Born in Havana, Maria Manso moved to Miami with her family when she was just four years old, and learned to cook from her mom. At twenty she took her first culinary job as an oyster shucker in New Orleans. Famed restauranteur Dick Brennan, Jr. rapidly promoted her, and when she returned to Miami, he recommended her to Norman Van Aken of A Mano restaurant.
"I fell in love with the restaurant business," recalls Manso. "What these amazing chefs were doing really opened my eyes. I saw the pride they took in their work, and I knew I'd found my calling." In 1995 she went to work for Jeffrey Chodorow at China Grill in Miami, and then relocated to San Francisco in 2001 to open Chodorow’s fusion-style Asia de Cuba at the Clift Hotel.
Main Dining Room
When she moved to Marin County, she partnered with Yo Perez Gentilini, now the restaurant’s Director of Operations, to see her lifelong dream finally become a reality.
During one recent visit we started nibbling at the complimentary orange and green crispy, tortilla-like, vegetable strips and hummus-like dip while waiting for our entrees.
Brigit ordered the Warm Caprese Salad, consisting of fried green tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil herb oil, as appetizer. As main course I had the visually impressive and delightful Whole Crispy Fish, an entire crispy striped bass served on a bed of chicory endive salad and tomatillo salsa. Brigit had the Hoisin Barbecued Salmon, with rosemary potato cake, which was equally excellent.
Patio
We washed down everything with a bottle of the solid 2003 Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino 'Radici' from the Italian region of Campania, which we appreciated greatly.
For dessert Brigit had the Traditional Cuban Flan, a silky custard flavored with caramel and vanilla. As I am not much of a dessert fan at the end of a meal, I ordered a glass of the truly luxurious 2000 Royal Tokaji, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, from Hungary. At $16 a glass, it is definitely pricey, but, as the name states, it's truly a royal libation.
In addition to the welcoming main dining room with a large store window overlooking Fourth Street, the restaurant features an outside patio for pleasant al fresco dining, which we have enjoyed in summer time.
The restaurant is available for formal banquet dinners, buffets, special events and receptions, with Chef Maria Manso and General Manager Yo Perez Gentilini handling all the details personally.They also provide photographer, DJ, dance floor, live music and entertainment on request.
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(January 2008)
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Appetizers |
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Green Tea Crusted Tuna - $13
(green tea crusted ahi seared rare, wasabi aioli, sweet soy and crispy wontons) |
Pulled Pork Cabbage Roll - $11
(Napa cabbage stuffed with pulled pork, served with guava glaze and grilled pineapple salsa) |
Coconut Curry Shrimp - $15
(skewered grilled shrimp, persian cucumber nishiki roll, red curry coconut sauce) |
Escargots - $13
(wild escargots sautéed in Chablis beurre blanc & layered with puff pastry) |
Warm Caprese Salad - $12.50
(fried green tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil herb oil) |
Lentil & Fennel Salad - $7.50
(organic lentils tossed with thinly sliced fennel, red bell pepper and red onion in a lemon vinaigrette and cilantro) |
California Avocado & Tomato Salad - $8
(haas avocado, tomatoes, thinly sliced red onion, alfalfa sprout and a citrus vinaigrette) |
Baby Mixed Greens - $5
(organic mixed greens, roasted shallot, Champagne dressing) |
Spinach Salad - $9
(Sonoma goat cheese, star anise infused Asian pears & raspberry vinaigrette) |
Arugula Salad - $8
(organic arugula tossed with white truffle oil, aged balsamic reduction, cherry tomatoes and parmigiano cheese) |
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Entrée |
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Ginger Crusted Cod - $25.50
(citrus mash, sautéed spinach and port wine reduction) |
Havana Pork Chop - $20.50
(panko crusted pork chop, sautéed watercress, black bean, citrus salad and mojo) |
Pan Seared Ahi Tuna - $18.50
(ahi seared rare, tempura avocado, sesame mash, candied ginger sauce) |
Chimichurri Surf & Turf - $23.50
(grilled flatiron steak, grilled shrimp, herb salad, yucca fries and chimichurri sauce) |
Whole Crispy Fish - $27
(whole crispy striped bass, chicory endive salad & tomatillo salsa) |
Grilled Cowboy Steak - $29.50
(14oz. bone in prime rib, roasted corn, smoked bacon & potato hash, merlot demi glace) |
Hoisin Barbecued Salmon - $17
(grilled salmon, hoisin barbecue sauce & rosemary potato cake) |
Sweet & Sour Duck - $24.50
(half oven-roasted duck, boniato mash and a sweet and sour passion fruit glaze ) |
Portobello Napoleon - $16
(grilled portobello mushroom, fontina cheese & roasted red bell peppers served with a sun dried tomato orzo and herb oil ) |
Sesame Crusted Tofu - $12
(seared organic tofu with a black & white sesame crust, sautéed Asian vegetables and sweet soy) |
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Side Dishes |
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| Sweet Plantains - $5 |
Sautéed Spinach - $6
(garlic sautéed spinach) |
Asian Cole Slaw - $5
(Napa cabbage, carrots, watercress & apple cider dressing ) |
Sesame Mash - $5
(mashed potatoes infused with sesame oil) |
Sauteed Haricot Vert - $5
(french green beans) |
Cuban Black Beans - $5
(steamed jasmine rice) |
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Desserts |
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Traditional Cuban Flan - $6
(silky custard infused with caramel and vanilla) |
Chocolate Sin Cake - $7
(flourless chocolate cake and raspberry coulis) |
Tempura Banana Split - $8
(crispy banana topped with coconut sorbet and a semi sweet chocolate sauce) |
| Coconut Sorbet - $5 |
Dessert Tasting Platter - $15
(Chocolate Sin Cake, Traditional Cuban Flan, and Coconut Sorbet) |
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Reserve Wine List (January 2008)
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By ther Glass |
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Glass |
Bottle |
| NV Zardetto, Prosecco, Italy |
$8 |
$32 |
| NV Bottex, Vin du Bugey-Cerdon "La Cueille" Rose Blend, France |
$10 |
$40 |
| NV Charles Heidsieck, Brut Reserve, Champagne, France |
$12.50 |
$50 |
| Riff, Pinot Grigio, Delle Venezie, Italy 2005 |
$6 |
$24 |
| Domaines Astruc, d.A.Reserve, Chardonnay, Languedoc, France 2004 |
$8 |
$32 |
| Brander, Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Ynez Valley 2005 |
$8 |
$32 |
| D'Argenzio, Pinot Noir, Bacigalupi, Sonoma County 2004 |
$12 |
$46 |
| Terre De Trinci, Cajo,Sagrantino, Cab Sauv, Merlot, Umbria, Italia 2001 |
$8 |
$32 |
| Grant Burge, Barossa Vines, Shiraz, Barossa, Australia 2003 |
$7 |
$28 |
| Paul Hobbs, Cocodrilo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina 2005 |
$10 |
$40 |
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Bubbles ... |
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| Charles Heidsieck,Brut Réserve, Reims, Champagne, France |
$50 |
| NV Bottex, Vin du Bugey-Cerdon "La Cueille" Rose Blend, France |
$40 |
| Veuve Clicquot, Ponsardin, Yellow Label, Champagne, France NV |
$60 |
| Zardetto, Prosecco, Italy |
$32 |
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White Wine |
Perfumed & Exotic |
| Bodegas As Laxas, Laxas,Albarino, D O Rías Baixas, Spain 2005 |
$33 |
| Schlumberger, Les Princes Abbés, Pinot Blanc, Alsace, 2004 |
$25 |
| Inama, Gargenega, Soave Classico, Italy 2002 |
$45 |
| Londer, Dry Gewürztraminer, Anderson Valley 2003 |
$36 |
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Fresh & Lively |
| Castillo De Monjardin, Monjardin, Chardonnay, Navarra, Spain 2005 |
$32 |
| Merry Edwards, Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley 2005 |
$46 |
| Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy, Sancerre,Sauvignon Blanc, Loire Valley, France 2005 |
Demi $23 |
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| Alois Lageder, Pinot Bianco, Alto Adige, Italy 2004 |
$25 |
| William Févre, Champs Royaux, Chardonnay, 1er Cru Chablis, Burgundy 2003 |
$48 |
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Round & Voluptuous |
| Peter Lehman, Semillon, Australia 2002 |
$30 |
| Sonoma-Cutrer, Russian River Ranches, Chardonnay, Sonoma County 2005 |
Demi $20 |
$40 |
| Mastroberardino,Radici, Fiano di Avellino, Campania, Italy 2003 |
$45 |
| Kistler, Les Noisetiers, Chardonnay, Sonoma County, 2002 |
$96 |
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Red Wine |
Lush & Supple |
| Alois Lageder, Pinot Nero, Südtirol, Alto Adige, Italy 2002 |
$44 |
| Merry Edwards, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast,2005 |
Demi $33 |
$66 |
| Artazu, Artazuri, Garnacha, Navarra, Spain 2003 |
$24 |
| Chateau Thivin, Cote de Brouilly en Beaujolais, Gamay, Burgundy 2004 |
$18 |
| Domaine D'Aupilhac, "Lou Maset",Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Languedoc 2004 |
$22 |
| Botromagno, Primitivo, Gioia Del Colle, Apulia, Italy 2003 |
$35 |
| Vietti, Tre Vigne, Barbera d'Asti, Piemonte,Italy, 2003 |
$38 |
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Robust & Spicy |
| Chateau Aney, Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc, Haut-Medoc, Cru Bourgeois 2002 |
Demi $22 |
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| Chateau De Saint Cosme,Valbelle, Grenache, Gigondas, Rhône Valley, France 2001 |
$76 |
| Morgante, Vendemmia, Nero d’Avola, Sicily, Italy 2003 |
$40 |
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Regal & Rich |
| Benziger, Tribute, Meritage, Sonoma County 2002 |
Demi $46 |
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| White Oak Vineyards, White Oak,Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc, Napa Valley 2002 |
$48 |
| Dhesa Gago, "g",Tempranillo, Toro, Spain 2004 |
$30 |
| Tenuta Sette Ponti, Crognolo, Sangiovese/Merlot, Tuscany, Italy 2002 |
$76 |
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Dessert Wines & Digestifs |
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| Maria and Yo suggest a Korean Sambuca as a soothing digestif |
$7 |
| Ramos Pinto, "Errvamoira", 10 year Tawny, Portugal |
$10 |
| Graham's, Late Bottled Vintage 2000, Portugal |
$12 |
| Warre's, Late Bottle Vintage 1995, Portugal |
$14 |
| Royal Tokaji, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, 2000, Hungary |
$16 |
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