Try these Italian wines for a taste of La Dolce Vita
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| Umani Ronchi 2003 Verdicchio Classico Superiore, Casal di Serra | |
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| 2001 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Jorio, | |
This week, I had the pleasure of tasting four wines with champion sommelier Beppe Biggica, an international ambassador for Italian wine. The first, an extra-dry Prosecco di Conegliano NV was delightfully refreshing and made an appealing start to the tasting. The sparkling wine is a brilliant straw-yellow with a fine, lightly fruity bouquet. Only gently pressed at first production level, the wine remains full flavored and lively with very fine perlage (bubbles).
The next on the list was the 2003 Verdicchio Classico Superiore, Casal di Serra, produced near the Castelli town of Jesi.
Verdicchio is one of Italy's most famous native vines and one of the most lauded producers of the wine is Umani Ronchi. Owned by the Bernetti family, this winery is one of a number in the Verdicchio Classico area. In all, there are over over 110 hectares dedicated to the vine in this prestigious region.
The Classico Superiore is a strikingly individual wine of medium body, "Typical of a true Verdicchio di Jesi," says Biggica. Indeed. Light, yet satisfying, the wine is especially good with rice or fish.
Also produced by Umani Ronchi is the 2001 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Jorio, a respected red of amazing value. Vigorous, with a deep ruby color, the wine has good balance of tannins and a full rounded flavor.
Putting it to a hard test (for wines), I tried it with Veal Mondeghili, a Milanese dish also containing foie gras and asparagus and quail eggs; two items which can kill a good wine.
The meats in the dish shone through the egg and asparagus flavors, and the wine went well with everything.
After this, it was time to try four Italian cheeses: Taletto, Gorgonzola, Mozzarella and (eating, not cooking) Parmesan, with both the Montepulciano and a Marsala dessert wine from Sicily.
The pairings produced some interesting gustatory sensations, but rather than provide an in-depth description, I recommend you try these for yourself.
Aside from the challenge of getting first-hand experience, trying out new tastes is fun, which, if the truth be told, is what enjoying wine is all about.
Whether they are native or foreign-grape based, the wines of Italy are rewarding palates all over Asia, especially when served with a variety of Eastern or Western dishes.
One of the most forward thinking F&B directors in Hong Kong is Jens Corder who, when preparing for the most recent promotion at Napa, concentrated on the wines and food from Italy.
The aim was to provide authentic dishes created in the most customary way, everything "Just as Mama used to make plus more," says Corder, and all designed by Michelin-starred chefs flown in for the occasion.
At Napa, the wines from the celebrated regions of northern and southern Italy are featured for the whole month of December - including the lovely, luscious Marsala dessert wine.
Originally Published on  ©2004Napa: 21/F Kowloon Shangri-la Hotel, 64 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, Hong Kong – Tel: 2733-8752 In addition to being an international food and wine critic and judge Maggie Beale is the president of the Wine Writers Circle |
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