Prosciutto di Parma DOP and
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Introduction
Here we continue our presentation of Italy's 155 products of Protected Designations of Origin (PDO, or, in Italian, DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGI, or IGP in Italian, Indicazione Geografica Protetta).
This month we present two DOP prosciuttosfrom the Emilia Romagna region: the universally known and appreciated Prosciutto di Parma DOP, and the less known outside the regional boundaries, but not less appreciated locally, Prosciutto di Modena DOP.
Prosciutto di Parma DOP (Emilia Romagna)
Protected Designations of Origin: Reg. Reg. CE n.1107/96
Some History
The word prosciutto comes form the latin prae exuctus, which means 'drained out'.
In the 14th century, Parma peasants started to use salt from the Salsomaggiore hot springs to cure and preserve pork meat, because of its higher content of sodium, bromine, sulphur and nitrite, when compared to the salt produced in Cervia salt mines, which they had used before. The high content of these minerals makes the salt more effective for long-time preservation of raw meat.
The art of preserving pork meat by salting it had been known since Roman times, in fact, the most ancient known report about preparation and preservation of meat using salt dates back to the 2nd century BC and appear in the works of Cato the Elder.
Around the year 1000, the growth of population in and around Parma caused the clearing of the surrounding land to create agricultural fields dedicated to the cultivation of cereals. It is around this period that bread starts to substitute meat in the daily diet of peasants citizens alike, because of the heavy taxes imposed at that time on meat products.
During the 13th century the powerful Corporazione dei Beccai (Butcher Corporation), which was in charge of killing pigs, preservation and salling pork meat, was very active in Parma. In 1459 however, the Lardaroli, or the people which killed the pigs, left the corporation officially.
One of the oldest written references to the Prosciutto di Parma is found in a 16th century poem by Pomponio Torelli. Several laws and edicts prohibiting pig breeding in the city start to appear in the same century, and continue for about three centuries, until the year 1803. This is an indication of how widespread pig breeding had become by that time, both domestically and for private consumption, as well as commercially.
Sugnatura
Production Phases
The swine used to produce Prosciutto di Parma DOP must be of the Large White, Landrance, or Duroc variety; weigh at least 145 kilograms (about 320 pounds), and be at least nine months old.
After butchering, the legs selected for the production of prosciutto are branded with 'P.P.' (Proscoiutto di Parma) and the logo of the slaughtering house. The legs are then cooled for 24 hours to 0°C (32°F). Afterward each leg is first trimmed, then vigorously massaged to loosen the fibers and squeeze out possible blood residues.
After this process, the first salt seasoning takes place, at a constant, room temperature. It must not be too cold, in order for the salt to be absorbed at best by the meat, nor to warm, to avoid possible deterioration of the raw meat.
Any type of chemical additive or preservative is absolutely forbidden in the production of Prosciutto di Parma DOP.
Processing continues with a week resting in refrigerated rooms at the temperature of 1° to 4°C (33.8° to 39.2°F) and 80% humidity. Next, the legs are carefully cleaned, then covered with another thin layer of salt and put to rest in refrigerated rooms for 15 to 18 days, depending on the weight of the prosciutto. At the end of this period, the excess salt is removed and the legs are laid in rooms with 75% humidity, called di riposo (for rest), where they remain for two to three months at the temperature of 5°C (41°F) maximum. Afterward the legs are washed in lukewarm water, cleaned carefully and dried.
Drilling
Next comes the pre-aging phase, during which the prosciutti are hung using special tools called scalere. after that each leg is manipulated and pressed to give the final product a regular shape. At this point crushed pepper is added in the space around the bone to guarantee that the area remains completely dry.
The next phase is called sugnatura, and consists in applying a uniform, thin layer of pork fat mixed with salt, ground pepper and, if needed, rice flour, to the cut made to separate the leg from the rest of the pork. That done, the prosciutti are transferred into the cantina (cellar), so called because these rooms are cooler and less aerated than ones where the pre-aging took place.
At this time the sondaggio (drilling) takes place. This consists of puncturing the meat deeply with a needle made of horse bone, to evaluate the olfactory characteristics and make sure that the transformation of the product is proceeding as expected. The horse bone has the characteristic of temporarily retaining the aroma of the material where it is inserted, and loses it rapidly afterward. After this test, the prosciutti found to be as expected are 'promoted' to the final aging.
The five-point crown mark
At this point each 'promoted' prosciutto is branded with the round 'C.P.P.' (Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma, or Consortium of the Prosciutto from Parma) logo, including the month and year when the aging started. This phase lasts for 10 months for prosciutti weighing from 7 to 9 kilograms (15.4 to 19.85 pounds), while the heavier ones are aged up to 12 months.
After this period the prosciutti undergo a final olfactory exam, and only those which are judged perfect are fire-branded with the five-point crown, that is, the state mark which certifies the quality of the product.
Characteristics
When sliced, the Prosciutto di Parma DOP shows a uniform color between deep pink and red, crossed and surrounded by the pure white of the fat component. The flavor is delicate and sweet, slightly salted and fragrant aroma.
- Production Zone:
The area in the province of Parma located at least 5 kilometers south of the Via Emilia, and delimited to the east by the Enza river, and by the Stirone creek to the west.
The breeding area of the pigs includes the Emilia Romagna, Veneto, Lombardy, Piedmont, Molise, Umbria, Abruzzo, Marche, Abruzzo and Latium regions. - Producers' Organization:
Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma
Via Marco dell'Arpa 8/b
43100 Parma
Tel. 0521 246211
Prosciutto di Modena DOP (Emilia Romagna)
Protected Designations of Origin: Reg. CE n.1107/96
To produce the Prosciutto di Modena DOP are used legs of pigs aged at least nine months, bred in the regions of Piedmont, Lombardy, Emilia Romagna, Abruzzo, Latium, Molise, Abruzzo, Veneto, Marche and Umbria.
The procedure is similar to that applied to the transformation of the Prosciutto di Parma DOP. The legs are cooled to 0°C (32°F), then are salted and left to rest at the temperature of 2°C (35.6°F) for about eight weeks. Afterward they are washed, dried, and undergo the sugnatura, which in this case consists of applying a thin layer of a paste made with flour, lard, salt and pepper.
The aging lasts around one year. The slice of the Prosciutto di Modena DOP has a nice red color more or less intense. It has a pleasant perfume and to the palate reveals a pleasant, delicate flavor.
- Production Zone:
Thirty four municipalities in the Modena, Bologna and Reggio Emilia provinces. - Producers' Organization:
Consorzio del Prosciutto di Modena
Viale Corassori n. 72
41100 Modena
Tel. +39059343464
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