Pecorino Sardo DOP and
Pecorino Romano DOP
- February 1, 2009



Introduction
Here we continue our presentation of Italy's 155 products of Protected Designations of Origin (PDO, or, in Italian, DOP, Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGI, or IGP in Italian, Indicazione Geografica Protetta).

This month we present two DOP cheeses made from sheep's milk: the Pecorino Romano DOP (Roman Pecorino Cheese), well known and appreciated in Italy and overseas, especially in the US, and the Pecorino Sardo DOP (Sardinian Pecorino Cheese), loved by anybody who visited the island and had the opportunity to savor its distinctive taste.


Pecorino Romano DOP (Latium, Tuscany, Sardinia)
Protected Designations of Origin: June 12, 1996

Pecorino is the generic name used to define any type of Italian cheese produced with sheep's milk. In fact, Italy offers a great variety of pecorino cheeses, whose specific characteristics are defined by the production area, the variety of the sheep who provide the milk, and the preparation techniques.

Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Pecorino Romano DOP
The traditional production zone of the Pecorino Romano DOP, which is one of the most ancient types of cheese produced in the world, is the Agro Romano area. Many Roman authors, including Varro, Pliny the Elder, Hippocrates and Columella, report details about the production techniques used to produce this cheese, which are not substantially different from the ones used up to this day. In relatively more recent times, entrepreneurial Roman and Neapolitan cheese makers exported the production know-how to the island of Sardinia, which has since become the main producer of this type of cheese. In fact, despite the fact that this pecorino is called "Romano" (from Rome), most of it is currently produced in Sardinia, where, by the way, the Consortium for the Protection of the Pecorino Romano DOP has its headquarters.

Characteristics of the Product
Il Pecorino Romano DOP is a cheese with compact, white cheese aged from eight to 12 months.

Immediately after milking, the milk is filtered, then warmed in a boiler adding a natural culture of milk enzymes called scotta-innesto, which kick-AZstarts the milk fermentation, after which the sheep curdle is added. The curdling is then broken into small grains the approximate size of a grain of corn or rice, then cooked at 45-48°C. (113-118.4°F.), before being transferred in the drainage tub. Subsequently the cheese is put into molds, pressed and branded with the name of the producer, as well as the month and year of production.

Pecorino Romano DOP
Pecorino Romano DOP

During the preparation of this cheese a particular operation called frugatura takes place. This consists of inserting a pipe in the center of the curdle when it is pressed, to help the release of serum. The cheese is dry salted several times in special rooms, called caciare in times past, for a period of two months.

The finished wheels are round and weight from 22 to 33 kilos (48.5 to 77.75 pounds). The rind is either straw yellow, or dark brown if the wheel has been protected by applying a layer of fat and amber coloring, or other protective substances. The slice is either white or light straw yellow, generally compact, though it may present very small holes. The aroma is fragrant and characteristic, while the flavor is typically spicy and slightly hot.

Use and Wine Pairing
Traditionally, locals in the Roman countryside pair the Pecorino Romano DOP with homemade-style bread and fresh, raw fava beans. Used grated, it is an irreplaceable ingredient in many regional recipes, especially in the south-central regions of Italy.

With young Pecorino Romano DOP pour Velletri Rosso or Cesanese del Piglio wines, while the aged version pairs well with more important, strong-bodied wines, such as Brunello di Montalcino, Cannonau di Sardegna, or Carignano del Sulcis Rosso.


Pecorino Sardo DOP (Sardinia)
Protected Designations of Origin: June 12, 1996

Pecorino Sardo DOP
Pecorino Sardo DOP

The Pecorino Sardo DOP is a compact, white cheese aged for varying lengths of time, depending on the final type of product desired. There are three different types: Pecorino Sardo Dolce DOP, Pecorino Sardo Stagionato DOP, and Fiore Sardo DOP. The last one is the oldest cheese produced in this region, and it is mentioned in books by Father Francesco Gemelli and Alfonso Ferrero Marchese della Marmora, known to most simply as La Marmora. When aged longer than six months it becomes an excellent grating cheese to use on pasta and other dishes, as one does with the Parmigiano Reggiano o Grana.

Characteristics of the Product
The wheels are round, with a diameter of 15 to 18 centimeters (5.9 to 7 inches), eight from 6 to 10 centimeters (2.36 to 3.93 inches), and weigh from 1 to 2.3 kilos (2.2 to 5 pounds). The rind is thin, smooth and white or light straw yellow in color. The slice is white, soft and usually compact, though at times it may present with sparse small holes. In the case of the Fiore Sardo DOP, the color is darker and the cheese a lot harder.

To make the cheese, natural enzymes are added to the milk, while cow curdle is used for curdling. Salt seasoning may be applied dry or, more commonly, in brine.

Fiore Sardo DOP
Fiore Sardo DOP

Ageing takes place in proper rooms for 20 days minimum, but less then two months for the 'sweet' (dolce) variety, and over two months for the stagionato (aged) variety. The ageing for the Fiore Sardo DOP may last up to 12 months. In addition, the wheels of Fiore Sardo DOP are heavier, and can weigh as much as 4 kilos (8.8 pounds).

When the cheese is young, the rind is thin and white, or light straw yellow, but with longer ageing becomes thicker and turns to brown. The consistency, which is soft and rubbery when the cheese is young, with ageing becomes harder. The flavor is sweet and aromatic when aged up to three months, while it becomes saltier and spicier when aged eight months or longer. Smoking the wheels is allowed for the aged cheese, which then acquires a characteristic, defined and penetrating flavor.

Use and Wine Pairing
Both the Pecorino Sardo Dolce DOP and Pecorino Sardo Stagionato DOP, are excellent table cheeses, while the Fiore Sardo DOP is an excellent grating cheese.

The Pecorino Sardo Dolce DOP pairs well with fresh, easy wines such ads Vermentino di Gallura, Vermentino di Sardegna, or Monica di Sardegna. The Pecorino Sardo Stagionato DOP on the other hand requires wines with heavier body, such as Cannonau di Sardegna, Mandrolisai, Carignano del Sulcis Rosso, and Brunello di Montalcino.



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