Accidental Enotourist– September 2004
Little by little, with constance and patience, I built my own "personal vertical of Pergole Torte", awaiting with expectation the right moment for it. My perseverance was gratified three weeks ago, after I found the ideal partner in Maria Luisa Scolastra, the excellent chef/owner of the restaurant Villa Roncalli (Foligno, Via Roma 25, tel. 0742/391091). So I gathered few, but trusted, tasting companions and we got down to it.
|Maria Luisa Scolastra's Menu – Foligno - Tuesday, August 3, 2004|
|Home-made Capocollo (kind of salami)||15|
|Beets an cucumber puree with squids an little gnocchi||17|
|Butterflies pasta, verdure trifolate, pork loin and fennel||16.5|
|Eggplant Parmigiana with little tomatoes, basel and pigeon||18|
|Winter squash bloom and chianina risotto||18|
|Tagliatelle con ragù made with duck, sage and Montasio cheese||18|
|Broiled lamb seasoned with juniper||17|
|Vanilla cake with caramello sauce||15.5|
The setting is Foligno, a Medieval town in the heart of the beautiful Umbria region, which culinary traditions are Maria Luisa's true DNA di. We paired her excellent recipes with eight vintages of the famous Tuscan Sangiovese: 1986, 1988, 1990, the mythic 1990 riserva, 1993, 1994, 1995 and 1996.
The tasting is conducted with the needed scrupulousness and brings us many, unexpected emotions, including the less important vintages.
The 1990 (in its riserva version) don't betray the expectation: garnet red, exemplary ripeness and development with complex coffee, chocolate and orange peel aromas. We all agree to assign 95/100 points to it.
The 1993 is not far behind. The intensity and balance are amazing. Perfumes of licorice and coffee alternate and blend in such a pleasant flavor experience that calls for at least 94/100 points.
Other vintages (1990, 1994 and 1995) are all well above the 90/100 points and, altogether, each wine express admirable personality. The evening comes to an end and we peek lazily the eight bottles lined on the table.
Tomorrow I'll be, finally, on the road again: the first stop will be San Vincenzo, in Tuscany, to meet the greatest Italian chef.
|Translated from Italian by Winecountry.IT|